Hey folks,
Firstly big thanks to pat for the explanation in my previous thread
Now I've just had my Syvecs installed (v happy)
But I would like to install AL & LC on separate switches
How do I achieve this (I already have the spst buttons)
Is there any splicing involved ?
Also I have a gizmo LC and FFS installed previous which wasn't removed
The LC has been deactivated on the gizmo but the FFS with the clutch relays still fitted is still active ( FFS set to 5000)
Tried it yesterday and bounced to 8k (immediately stopped using it)
My q on this is. Is the gizmo interfacable with the Syvecs as all the relays for the FFS is there
If not when I remove this what is involved to fully install my FFS via Syvecs
Once again thanks
Steve
Wanting to connect AL/LC to buttons also a FFS Question
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pat
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Re: Wanting to connect AL/LC to buttons also a FFS Question
Hiya Steve!
Glad you got it working and that you're happy with it
If you want separate Launch Control and Anti Lag switches then you need to assign two spare inputs to those functions. If you go down to the I/O Config and scroll down to the Launch Control input and hit enter you'll be presented with a list of what inputs are permissible and which ones are presently free (white is free, red is used). It would be best (but not mandatory) to use a spare AU input (AN5-8) or spare AR input (AN13-16). If you don't have any of those spare then you can use an AB or AV input, but you will need to tell the ECU to turn the input Pull Up off (it won't have one), that is done in the relevant section (Launch, or ALS). You will need to supply a 3k3 resistor external to the ECU, connected between the input and +5V. In all cases the switches should be connected between the input pin and ground, closing the circuit to activate (ie input polarity being active LOW).
You'll need to look at the relevant I/O list for your particular ECU type to find where the spare inputs are located, then you will probably need to snip any existing wires before connecting your switches. If it is a PnP version then you'll find that some of the pins may already be present close to where you need (eg the Test Mode connectors are under the dash, allowing easy access without needing to tap into the ECU loom in the footwell).
With regard to the Gizzmo devices you have, you need to remove them if you want your engine to live. Solder wires back together again securely, and use the ECU's own strategies. Whilst the general concept of the Gizzmo devices is not dissimilar to devices that do actually work, they are poorly implemented and are inappropriate for turbocharged cars. Let me explain. They achieve a rev limit by reducing the engine torque by means of preventing ignition pulses being sent to the coils. This causes a cylinder full of combustible mixture to go straight through the engine and into the exhaust manifold, where the wall temperature exceeds the autoignition temperature of the fuel, so the mixture explodes in the exhaust manifold. This causes the exhaust gas energy to rise dramatically, quite often to the point that the wastegate is no longer able to get rid of enough gas to keep the boost pressure under control.... the boost rises, which means more cut is required to keep the torque down, which means more cuts and thus more fuel in the exhaust manifold, which means more boost. It's a vicious cycle. Moral of the story is don't use ignition cut on a turbo vehicle as a torque reduction strategy, instead use fuel cut. The second problem with the Gizzmo devices is that even if ignition cut was appropriate for a turbocharged engine, they alter the ignition timing too, and not in a good way. The last one I looked at advanced the timing by 6 degrees. That might have been fine if it had been fitted before the car was mapped, but the device was fitted afterwards. It should come as no surprise, then, to hear that the engine was destroyed as a result.
You can of course set up FFS in the Syvecs ECU, but we call it Gear Cut Again you'll need to find a spare input and assign it to the Gear Cut function. You will be using a "Manual Gear Cut" strategy, that is to say the ECU isn't engaging it automagically in response to a paddle shift, which will sequence the unloading of the gear dogs, rotating the sequential barrel to engage the next gear, look for the gear position voltage to get to within a certain percentage of the voltage for the next gear before reintroducing torque. You'll be using the clutch switch as a "please reduce the engine torque" type input. You can configure what effect that has on the engine in terms of both fuel and ignition and also how long to interrupt for, and whether to end the cut early if the clutch is released again. Have a look around in the Gear Cut section to get a feel for what can be done
Hope this helps,
Pat.
Glad you got it working and that you're happy with it
If you want separate Launch Control and Anti Lag switches then you need to assign two spare inputs to those functions. If you go down to the I/O Config and scroll down to the Launch Control input and hit enter you'll be presented with a list of what inputs are permissible and which ones are presently free (white is free, red is used). It would be best (but not mandatory) to use a spare AU input (AN5-8) or spare AR input (AN13-16). If you don't have any of those spare then you can use an AB or AV input, but you will need to tell the ECU to turn the input Pull Up off (it won't have one), that is done in the relevant section (Launch, or ALS). You will need to supply a 3k3 resistor external to the ECU, connected between the input and +5V. In all cases the switches should be connected between the input pin and ground, closing the circuit to activate (ie input polarity being active LOW).
You'll need to look at the relevant I/O list for your particular ECU type to find where the spare inputs are located, then you will probably need to snip any existing wires before connecting your switches. If it is a PnP version then you'll find that some of the pins may already be present close to where you need (eg the Test Mode connectors are under the dash, allowing easy access without needing to tap into the ECU loom in the footwell).
With regard to the Gizzmo devices you have, you need to remove them if you want your engine to live. Solder wires back together again securely, and use the ECU's own strategies. Whilst the general concept of the Gizzmo devices is not dissimilar to devices that do actually work, they are poorly implemented and are inappropriate for turbocharged cars. Let me explain. They achieve a rev limit by reducing the engine torque by means of preventing ignition pulses being sent to the coils. This causes a cylinder full of combustible mixture to go straight through the engine and into the exhaust manifold, where the wall temperature exceeds the autoignition temperature of the fuel, so the mixture explodes in the exhaust manifold. This causes the exhaust gas energy to rise dramatically, quite often to the point that the wastegate is no longer able to get rid of enough gas to keep the boost pressure under control.... the boost rises, which means more cut is required to keep the torque down, which means more cuts and thus more fuel in the exhaust manifold, which means more boost. It's a vicious cycle. Moral of the story is don't use ignition cut on a turbo vehicle as a torque reduction strategy, instead use fuel cut. The second problem with the Gizzmo devices is that even if ignition cut was appropriate for a turbocharged engine, they alter the ignition timing too, and not in a good way. The last one I looked at advanced the timing by 6 degrees. That might have been fine if it had been fitted before the car was mapped, but the device was fitted afterwards. It should come as no surprise, then, to hear that the engine was destroyed as a result.
You can of course set up FFS in the Syvecs ECU, but we call it Gear Cut
Again you'll need to find a spare input and assign it to the Gear Cut function. You will be using a "Manual Gear Cut" strategy, that is to say the ECU isn't engaging it automagically in response to a paddle shift, which will sequence the unloading of the gear dogs, rotating the sequential barrel to engage the next gear, look for the gear position voltage to get to within a certain percentage of the voltage for the next gear before reintroducing torque. You'll be using the clutch switch as a "please reduce the engine torque" type input. You can configure what effect that has on the engine in terms of both fuel and ignition and also how long to interrupt for, and whether to end the cut early if the clutch is released again. Have a look around in the Gear Cut section to get a feel for what can be done Hope this helps,
Pat.
Re: Wanting to connect AL/LC to buttons also a FFS Question
hi pat
many thanks for the reply im going to have a look at this first thing tomorrow to see what inputs i have spare and get back to you
with regards to soldering this shouldnt be a problem (i hope)
but with regards to the switches ill have to see
im going to fire you off a pm
cheers
steve
many thanks for the reply im going to have a look at this first thing tomorrow to see what inputs i have spare and get back to you
with regards to soldering this shouldnt be a problem (i hope)
but with regards to the switches ill have to see
im going to fire you off a pm
cheers
steve