Sequential Paddle Downshift Blip (no clutch)

[stevieturbo]

certainly shouldn't be difficult to try a larger blade. No idea what would be considered the strongest or fastest though.

And doubt you'd want to go too big either ? Should be plenty of cheap OEM options out there.

[beetos]

Indeed, there’s a Bosch 54mm available but the custom manifold needed is a quite a bit of cash. On the to do list.

[stevieturbo]

How does the original mount ? Not a typical 4 bolt syle ?

[beetos]

Yes 4 blot into a plastic manifold with thread inserts. Could fashion an adapter plate but little room to do so.

[stevieturbo]

So should be pretty easy then.

[pavlo]

I don't think any of that is needed.

You need to cut blip cut.
You need to make the ALS consistent, that is, either turn it OFF or tune it properly.

Using the dog preparation cut with ignition cut for about 40ms gives you time to reintroduce fuel while opening the throttle. And then when the ignition is reinstated the blip will be much more crisp.

You also need to learn how to use a sequential gearbox with a strain gauge. I've been here many times before with drivers that think they can just punch the shit out the lever and all the magic will just happen.

It takes about 50ms to open a DBW throttle to about 50% for a blip, and then time to respond to the additional air, but you want everything to happen the moment you bash the stick.

Downshift sequence is:

Push the lever
Keep pushing and WAIT
WAIT SOME MORE
Blip happens
Gears disengage
Still pushing lever
Magic happens.

Even with an air system, you need to wait, but we can take control away from the brute behind the stick.

With pre blip the airflow is somewhat better, but you also need to factor in brake servo performance, i don't know if the vacuum pump on the yaris is enough to keep the servo powered with constant boost.

I will throw up some examples of more successful shift sequences when home.

[beetos]

Thank you Pavlo, much appreciated. Look forward to the examples.