Supradupra.com Supra mk3 JZA70 1jz-gte Aero Restoration

[Supradupra.com]

Update: 28-05-10

I have spent rather a large amount of time pulling together all the wafty information on the 1JZ wiring & control systems during my build.

I have now managed to collect together the data, cross check it, continue the testing & research to fill in all the missing parts & provide more detailed information for the 1jz Supra wiring.

I have also checked, cross referenced & compiled the information for the 1JZ ECT (auto) control - which is in built within the TCCS.

To the best of my knowledge & testing, the information is correct. Obviously if discrepancies are noted, I would like to know so I can continue to better the information.

I have compiled all this on one page for your convenience HERE at Supradupra.com.

Please don't hot link to the pictures on the site direct, I have my bandwidth to think about


Hopefully this is of use to people & this is possibly worth a sticky.


As work continues I will be adding more & more information, digidash has to be another one that needs compiling all in one place, no messing - there again, I have popped what I have on my site.


Also the 2jz water pump came in so, here's the write up for that:

*

It's common practice to remove the Hydrofan system on the 1jz engine & install the 2jz pump & some sort of electric fan arrangement.

This aims to explain this completely with a definitive answer.

Water pumps are prone to shaft seals drying out particularly during a build or when the engines stood for a while with no fluids. Sadly, this leak usually turns up when you first run the car with all your new fluids - joy!


The part you will need is the 2jz water pump assembly, personally I highly recommend you buy the entire kit from Toyota as the kit is so very complete, is guaranteed to fit & comes with everything you need, it's not a bad price either.

2jz water pump assembly: 16100-49847 £115.00. (April 2010)




You will also require a 2jz water pump pulley & the 4 bolts which hold it in place.

2jz water pump pulley: 16371-46020 £72.00

Nuts for pulley (need 4) 90179-08201 £?

Now you may want to search Ebay for an under drive pulley set & use some of the pulleys from that set - it works out cheaper than the toyota kit & you get 4 pulleys for the price of 1.

Search for: "ORG SUPRA JZA80 LEXUS CS300 SC300 JZS147 Light Pulley" Or similar.

I do not recommend you actually install the crank under drive pulleys to this engine.



The other parts I would also recommend you get due to them being disturbed are:

Water outlet housing gasket: 16343-88400 £0.95 (April 2010)

Turbo inlet gasket: 17376-88400 £2.00 (Approx)

Front crank seal: 90311-46001 £16.30 (April 2010) May as well replace while timing gears out.



To remove the hydrofan pump assembly you will need to:

DISCONNECT THE BATTERY

Drain Coolant system.
Drain hydrofan fluid.
Remove radiator & hydrofan with cowling.
Remove hydrofan reservoir & interconnecting pipes.
Unplug & peel back wiring from water temp sensors, alternator regulator, OX sens, PS sol.
Remove the Ancillary belt. DO NOT LET THE ANCILLARY BELT TENSIONER SNAP BACK - IT CAN DAMAGE THE HOUSING
Removing the alternator.


Remove the lower radiator hose from pump housing.
Remove the 2 bolts attaching the metal engine coolant pipe to the rear pump housing.

Remove the 2 bolts holding the top water outlet pipe to block - this is best done by removing the front turbo inlet pipe bolts so you can move the pipe out the way to get to the water outlet bolts. The water outlet pipe then lifts off the top of the pump.

Remove the crank pulley, timing covers, ancillary belt tensioner, cam belt tensioner & tensioner wheel & Cam belt.

Remove the 6 bolts holding the water pump onto the block - note where they came from as 4 are different.
Remove the water pump.

You should now have the horrible oil filled hydrofan unit out the car! (impeller is missing from this one)





You will need to swap over the link pipe from the top of your old pump & install it into your 2jz pump. replace the 2 orings (supplied with toyota pump)

Clean up the oring sealing surface on block & install the oring, Vaseline will help keep it in place while fitting new pump.

Install the water bypass pipe gasket to the studs & install the water pump. The correct bolt sequence & torques are HERE PAGE CO-11

Install nuts for water bypass pipe, Tq 15 FT/LB
Install new stat gasket (supplied with toyota kit) Install stat, Tq 15ft/lb
Install water outlet pipe & new gasket (16343-88400) Install bolts, Tq 15ft/lb. Be sure the gasket seats properly against block - it is a fiddle.
Install new turbo inlet gasket & 2 bolts, Tq 15ft/lb

Install timing gear, Follow steps HERE FROM PAGE EM-20








Install Ancillary belt tensioner, Tq 15ft/lb
Install top timing cover.
Install water pump pulley bolts x 4, Tq 12ft/lb
Install alternator, nut & bolt, Tq 30ft/lb.
Install ancillary belt.
Reconnect wiring.

That's it to swap the actual pump over.


You will obviously need to install some electric fans, 2x 12" fit well. How you control these & wire them is up to you. I will cover how I modified the system in another thread.




The space saving is vast over the hydrofan system that fouls up against all the running gear etc, particularly with performance rads!




If you alternator got a soaking I would advise you rinse this with clean water & dry it out with compressed air or in an oven at 50'c for a while. personally I stripped mine down again to remove all traces of coolant. The 2j pump has a pipe nipple so you can pop a bit of tube on this & bring it down past the alternator to prevent future soakings if the shaft seal should go again.


Hope this helps, Stuey @ Supradupra.com

[Wez]

Holly smokes, nice restoration project

[Johnny G]

Oh sweet Moses, that's an amazing project! You should check out ToyotaPerformanceMagazine.com where we would love to cover this!

[TLicense]

AS has been said, that is one awesome restoration job.

Really liking your work

[Supradupra.com]

Update Nov 2010:

It's been a while since I updated these build threads so, thought it was a bout time seeming as outside in the yUK is now a no go area for the next 6 months....

This car has actually been on the road since June 2010, in weekly use day or night, mainly dry weather but, not opposed to taking it out in the rain & it's even been salted thanks to a rather over zealous council whom will run out of salt when we actually need it....

April

While while waiting for 2jz water pump parts & pulleys to arrive I diverted attention to less important stuff, one of these items was daytime running lights that look factory fit. Not keen on the tacky & common Aldi DRLs that look like they were bought from Ebay even on the stock german yawn, I did like the looks of the Merc ones so, loosely based mine on those.

A dedicated thread for these is located here - http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showthr ... post324043.

LED arrays formed that fit into the front fogs.



Test fit into bumper - sorted!




May

The 2jz water pump arrived, this is a direct fit onto the 1jz with the hydrofan system removed.

http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showthr ... post324043

Pump installed & fluid refilled, no leaks this time!




Hydrofan system binned for twin electric fans from a Ford Mondeo. These Siemens fans really shift some serious air & the cowling fits perfectly. Again, a dedicated thread can be found here - http://www.forum.mkiiisupra.net/showthr ... ght=mondeo on the retrofitting of these fans.



The fans fit into the 1jz with a small amount of modification to the cowling plastics to clear the boost pipes & huge Koyo rad. On the 7M these just drop in.

Little ally brackets fabed up use the stock mounts on the rad.



Stock look once 2jz pulleys were fitted up, the serpentine belt stays stock too.



To aid cooling I made up a solid front part to the under tray out of ally sheet. This replaces the front part of the plastic under tray diverting all ram air through the coolers & also strengthens the front lip - bonus.






A small mod was carried out to the stock 1jz fan ECU that allowed it to interface with the electric fans & run as if stock. I also incorporated a dual speed system to simulate the constant movement of the hydrofan along with full pelt on demand cooling from the fan ECU & manual override switch.

In addition there is also a timed cool off period that runs the fans after engine shut off.



The slow fan speed dropper resistor is a stock fuel pump dropper while I used spare fuel pump relays I had to control the rest of the fan system, all bolt up to existing threaded holes in the chassis.





Early June


Car all back together complete for the first time in months!



Front end with DRLs fitted properly.



DRLs with sides.



Rear end with rear DRLs on in corners. These dim at night as part of the tail lights & serve with the brake lights too.



Electronic with remote trunk release fitted - having to use a lever to open the trunk always was & always will be one of the dumbest ideas ever!

The switch lights blue when the system is active, pressing it operates the trunk solenoid. The system is all interlocked with the central locking & alarm for remote operation also.





June 21st 2010


Off to Surrey Rolling Road to get the thing tuned by Ryan G.

We did hit a slight snag with regards turbo boost flat lining at XX point, almost as if a valve is controlling it perfectly - this is being dealt with on a different thread.

The MAP has just been set to work the car below this threshold at present &, when I can be bothered I'll look into the issue. Driveability is not effected by this problem, just top end power.



One of the Syvecs never ending screens.



Once al the mapping was done for this session I was able to mount the Syvecs ECU properly.

[Supradupra.com]

Update Nov 2010:

With the car back on the road & all the shakedown complete I enjoyed the car over the summer months as weather allowed, taking it out any excuse. It's an absolute dream to drive & feels like a new car.

Handling is impressive, the powers great even if we are short by about 120 BHP at present Lol.


July & Sept 2010

Just tweaking really from here on.

Temporary control panels fabricated for the Syvecs & traction control systems, along with other new electronics installed during build.



Pass view - This is really hard to photograph as the digital cameras make blue light look like the sun!



Drivers side




The trunk build got a revisit. I formed a dropped down section behind the rear seats to make use of wasted space, reduce the speaker baffle to improve resonance characteristics & split the build into 2 pieces which allows it to lift out without the need to remove the strut brace & forward targra holders.



I also lit the Audison amps to match the trunk lighting & installed some crafty hidden lights to the targra holders so they can be found nice and easy at night. These come on with the trunk light.




This is just a bit of fun, I made this circuit up about 14 years ago & it's been a kind of standing joke / trade mark ever since - I give you KITT Lol.





Car in the sun - a rare thing here in the yUK - country of perpetual grey sky.



Engine porn.



Lit up engine porn.



Trick blue over spark galley when seen from side.





A few videos for amusement.

Push button transponder key less start demo.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BwJwGgy65Kk

Daytime running lights operation with auto sides.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v85ml1zFWs0

LED rear light conversion.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0dTeU2luRuM


Obligatory scanner vid LOl. (for the kids you understand)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xw4iN1MY6yA



So, that's it for now, the car is on the road, in full use & has been for 6 months now. There's still plenty to do restoration wise, the next big thing being the bodywork which will be undertaken after christmess.

I also have the boosting issue to investigate but, TBH, the thing drives so well without the addition power at present I just want to enjoy that for a bit instead of pulling things apart again - you never knw, it may even fix it's self .... yeah rite!


Shiny car ready to deploy.

[secure]

insane!
Bunta would be proud

[brandonmillsap]

The other parts I would also recommend you get due to them being disturbed are:

Water outlet housing gasket: 16343-88400 £0.95 (April 2010)

Turbo inlet gasket: 17376-88400 £2.00 (Approx)

Front crank seal: 90311-46001 £16.30 (April 2010) May as well replace while timing gears out.

Those are cool pics, I think the water outlet housing gasket is a great deal. Thanks for sharing.

_______________

Keep it flowing!

93 Formula Mods: 383, LE2 Heads/Intake, 226/230 cam, 52MM TB, Magnaflow cat back, Brake Disc LT headers, CAI, SFC, Strut Brace, Adj LCA, Adj Panhard,Oil Pan Gasket Set Relocated Torque Arm, Progressive Rate Springs, Short Throw Shifter

[Supradupra.com]

No worries, it's why I'm here

[autosportnorth]

My hat is off to you sir, that is a beautiful build, nice to see people doing this with the JZA70, its a rare beast indeed. You've done it proud